Are you looking to build the ultimate S-10 or Blazer? Here is a guide to the best and strongest stock and aftermarket parts you will want for your build:
Transfer Case:
The transfer case that comes in any 4x4 S10 is either a 207, 231, 231HD, 233, 236 autotrac. The autotrac was only an option in the blazers.
The 231 and 231HD were the manual shifted transfer cases and were only an option up to 1997. These are the strongest and best option to put in a S10 as they are a complete bolt in and remove the vacuum line and electronic switch found in most 2nd generation S10's. There were two different types of 231 manual shifted transfer cases, a linkage set up found on first gen body S10's and a cable set up found on second gen body s10s. If you have a 1995+ the cable actuated is the easiest and direct swap.
The 233 is the 3 button transfer case found in most S10's it usually contains the "HD package" which includes a wider chain and 6 planetary gears.
the 236 autotrac is the 4 button transfer case that featured an auto button that used clutches in the transfer case to engage 4x4 when it felt the wheels slip.
For 2nd generation S10 owners the best setup to swap into your truck is to get a 231 transfer case and center console out of 2nd gen that had the manual transfer case. Then rebuild the transfer case with the 6 planetary gears and the wide chain and gears. Any of the holes that need to be drilled are all indented in the sheet metal from the factory. A relay also needs to be installed to ground a pin on the computer so that it goes to different shift tables when in four wheel low.
The 231 and 231HD were the manual shifted transfer cases and were only an option up to 1997. These are the strongest and best option to put in a S10 as they are a complete bolt in and remove the vacuum line and electronic switch found in most 2nd generation S10's. There were two different types of 231 manual shifted transfer cases, a linkage set up found on first gen body S10's and a cable set up found on second gen body s10s. If you have a 1995+ the cable actuated is the easiest and direct swap.
The 233 is the 3 button transfer case found in most S10's it usually contains the "HD package" which includes a wider chain and 6 planetary gears.
the 236 autotrac is the 4 button transfer case that featured an auto button that used clutches in the transfer case to engage 4x4 when it felt the wheels slip.
For 2nd generation S10 owners the best setup to swap into your truck is to get a 231 transfer case and center console out of 2nd gen that had the manual transfer case. Then rebuild the transfer case with the 6 planetary gears and the wide chain and gears. Any of the holes that need to be drilled are all indented in the sheet metal from the factory. A relay also needs to be installed to ground a pin on the computer so that it goes to different shift tables when in four wheel low.
Rear Axle:
S10’s came with several different rear axles that were all “ten bolts”
The S10 came with a 7.5”, 7 5/8”, 8.5”, or an 8.6”. S10 crewcabs with the 7 5/8” axle and S10’s with the 8.6 came with rear disk brakes. Also many second generation 4x4 blazers had disk brakes.
The code G80 in your glove box means that your vehicle came with a factory automatic locking rear differential made by Eaton. This unit does wear out and will require a rebuild or replacement with a different unit. For a replacement you have many options depending on your axle if you DID NOT have a code G80 then you have the option of installing a “lunchbox” locker that installs by replacing the
spider gears in your carrier. For those with a G80 code or seeking a locker with more strength you can replace the carrier with either a limited slip unit or a full locking differential. A limited slip can either be a clutch type or a gear driven unit and uses friction to distribute a predetermined amount of torque to
each wheel. A full locking differential will distribute 100 % of torque to both wheels. For full lockers there are several options including a selectable locker a full time locker or spool. A selectable locker can be broken down into electric such as the Eaton unit, or air such as the ARB unit. There is also an option for a limited slip differential with full electric locking capability by Auburn. A spool is an
option for vehicles which rarely see the street as they are a direct mechanical connection between both axle shafts. Welding the spider gears is also an option commonly called a “Lincoln locker” this is not recommended unless done by a professional and not meant for street use.
The S10 came with a 7.5”, 7 5/8”, 8.5”, or an 8.6”. S10 crewcabs with the 7 5/8” axle and S10’s with the 8.6 came with rear disk brakes. Also many second generation 4x4 blazers had disk brakes.
The code G80 in your glove box means that your vehicle came with a factory automatic locking rear differential made by Eaton. This unit does wear out and will require a rebuild or replacement with a different unit. For a replacement you have many options depending on your axle if you DID NOT have a code G80 then you have the option of installing a “lunchbox” locker that installs by replacing the
spider gears in your carrier. For those with a G80 code or seeking a locker with more strength you can replace the carrier with either a limited slip unit or a full locking differential. A limited slip can either be a clutch type or a gear driven unit and uses friction to distribute a predetermined amount of torque to
each wheel. A full locking differential will distribute 100 % of torque to both wheels. For full lockers there are several options including a selectable locker a full time locker or spool. A selectable locker can be broken down into electric such as the Eaton unit, or air such as the ARB unit. There is also an option for a limited slip differential with full electric locking capability by Auburn. A spool is an
option for vehicles which rarely see the street as they are a direct mechanical connection between both axle shafts. Welding the spider gears is also an option commonly called a “Lincoln locker” this is not recommended unless done by a professional and not meant for street use.
Front Axle:
All 2nd generation 4x4 5 speed S10's came with a cast iron front differential housing instead of the weak aluminum housing found in automatics.
Front axle shaft…
Oldsmobile Bravada's came with a one piece front axle shaft instead of the slide collar found in all other S10 4x4 front axle housings that is weak. A shaft out of a stock bravada can be used but it requires the outer c-clip to be removed. Outfitter Design LLC now sells an upgraded alloy shaft that allows both C-clips to be retained.
Front locker…
One option is the powertrax PT1935 which installs into the carrier and is a automatic locking differential that engages when you have your foot on the gas and disengages when coasting. WARNING: This may cause accelerated wear of front end components and should not be used with an aluminum differential.
Another option is to get an iron front differential from a 4x4 5 speed and install a Outfitter Design Bravada Shaft kit to delete the axle disconnect. Make sure you get a front diff out of a truck with the same gear ratio or you will need to regear. All ZR2's came with 3.73 gears.
For the strongest setup, use the new Outfitter Design Heavy Duty IFS Dana 30 front differential. These are available on our website.
Front axle shaft…
Oldsmobile Bravada's came with a one piece front axle shaft instead of the slide collar found in all other S10 4x4 front axle housings that is weak. A shaft out of a stock bravada can be used but it requires the outer c-clip to be removed. Outfitter Design LLC now sells an upgraded alloy shaft that allows both C-clips to be retained.
Front locker…
One option is the powertrax PT1935 which installs into the carrier and is a automatic locking differential that engages when you have your foot on the gas and disengages when coasting. WARNING: This may cause accelerated wear of front end components and should not be used with an aluminum differential.
Another option is to get an iron front differential from a 4x4 5 speed and install a Outfitter Design Bravada Shaft kit to delete the axle disconnect. Make sure you get a front diff out of a truck with the same gear ratio or you will need to regear. All ZR2's came with 3.73 gears.
For the strongest setup, use the new Outfitter Design Heavy Duty IFS Dana 30 front differential. These are available on our website.
Lift Kits:
To fit 33's on a ZR2 you can install a 2" or 3" bodylift from performance accessories or BDS and do some minor trimming. Glass fenders and bedsides are also another option along with Diversified Creations extended fender flares. Also I have seen 33x10.5x15 be installed with lots of trimming to the wheel wells on a stock height ZR2.
As far as suspension lift kits there are five main options:
1. 6” Superlift. This kit is unique in that it contains a steering support system that relieves some stress on the idler and pitman arm.
2. 2” Superlift. This kit can be described as an expensive torsion bar crank with rear lift shackles. It includes replacement control arms that relieve the ball joints of extreme angle when the torsion bars are adjusted beyond Z-Height (This is a calculated factory allowed height). Accelerated CV wear is common in many cases.
3. 5” BDS. This kit is excellent for the sake that it has a lifetime warranty but is specific to the ZR2. It does not have the steering support that the Superlift kit has. BDS's ability to retain suspension geometry has come into question. They use extended tierod sleeves instead of dropping the steering linkage.
4. 5” Trailmaster. This kit is only for the regular S10 NOT ZR2
5. 2.5” Rough Country. This kit is new on the market and features tubular upper control arms that utilize fullsize silverado balljoints. A differential drop bracket is used to lower the differential but requires the housing to be cut. The kit also included extended rear shackles, new torsion bar keys and upgraded shocks. This kit really improves the strength in the upper control arm area but some have experienced contact with the rim and the upper control arm.
As far as suspension lift kits there are five main options:
1. 6” Superlift. This kit is unique in that it contains a steering support system that relieves some stress on the idler and pitman arm.
2. 2” Superlift. This kit can be described as an expensive torsion bar crank with rear lift shackles. It includes replacement control arms that relieve the ball joints of extreme angle when the torsion bars are adjusted beyond Z-Height (This is a calculated factory allowed height). Accelerated CV wear is common in many cases.
3. 5” BDS. This kit is excellent for the sake that it has a lifetime warranty but is specific to the ZR2. It does not have the steering support that the Superlift kit has. BDS's ability to retain suspension geometry has come into question. They use extended tierod sleeves instead of dropping the steering linkage.
4. 5” Trailmaster. This kit is only for the regular S10 NOT ZR2
5. 2.5” Rough Country. This kit is new on the market and features tubular upper control arms that utilize fullsize silverado balljoints. A differential drop bracket is used to lower the differential but requires the housing to be cut. The kit also included extended rear shackles, new torsion bar keys and upgraded shocks. This kit really improves the strength in the upper control arm area but some have experienced contact with the rim and the upper control arm.
Now to our favorite part....SUSPENSION!
There currently is no long travel 4x4 kit on the market or any CHEAP way to long travel your 4x4 but I have identified several ways to get a few inches out of your stock set up.
Rear suspension…
To level your sagging rear suspension on your blazer you can get 2" lift shackles, add-a-leaf, Monroe air shocks PN:MA764, Deaver replacement leaf packs, or go custom. Lift blocks WILL NOT WORK as S10's have a spring under axle set-up.
Swaybar…
The basic 4x4 S10 came with a front sway bar. A ZR2 S10 truck came with a front swaybar and a rear track bar. The blazers came with front and rear swaybars.
We have removed the rear sway bar on every blazer we have owned. Also we have removed the front swaybar without issue and have had a much more comfortable ride and it handles much better offroad. DO THIS WITH CAUTION as more body roll is induced and can affect high speed maneuvers in the event of an emergency. The best option is to build sway bar disconnects.
Bumpstops…
You can purchase energy suspension low profile bump stops PN : 99116. We currently have them installed and were able to net about 1.5” of "uptravel" and have encountered no problems at all. Make sure you still have tire clearance if you have increased the size of your tires upon full compression.
Springs...
If you have a stock suspension designed 4x4 S10 you have torsion bars for front springs and the only "leveling kit" is to adjust your Z-height by tightening the torsion bar adjustment bolt to Z- spec and then getting an alignment. Your next best option for reaching the top limits of the Z- spec is the Rough Country kit.
Control arms...
The stock stamped control arms are weak in design and are subject to deformation where the bushing is pressed through the two vertical pieces of the pivot on the arm. This needs to be fixed by welding in material to be boxed the pivot and make sure that the arm you are boxing has not already been deformed. For the upper arm you have a few options. AVOID the Superlift upper control arm as it is difficult to hold an alignment and has different geometry then the
stock arms. BDS makes tubular upper control arms that are MUCH stronger then stock and have a different bushing design then the factory setup. Or you can box the upper arm like the lower arm. The latest option on the market is the Rough country lift kit arms. While they have slightly different geometry, we have had great luck using them within the factory Z height spec.
Control arm bushings...
There are also several options for these. You can run stock rubber bushings. You can have custom delrin bushings made. Or you can run poly bushings. There is a trick to this though. You will need two kits energy suspension kit PN:33119 and MOOG kit PN: K6418. The energy suspension kit comes with presleeved lower control arm bushing but not upper bushings. The upper replacement bushings are prone to accelerated wear in that kit. The Moog kit comes with presleeved thermoplastic upper control arm bushings. If you are going to use stock control arms I suggest boxing the arms before you press out the old bushings and install new ones.
Balljoints...
The best choice for the lower control arm is Proforged. They have the highest pullout rating and hold their strength even when put to the max angle. The upper control arm there two choices:
#1 Stock style balljoints such as Proforged
#2 Fullsize balljoints in the instance that you have Rough Country control arms installed.
Shocks…
The ZR2 came equipped from the factory with Bilstein 5100 shock absorbers and many users have found that these are an excellent long lasting unit. The Rancho replacement shocks for the S10 are valved stiffer than the factory shocks.
Rear suspension…
To level your sagging rear suspension on your blazer you can get 2" lift shackles, add-a-leaf, Monroe air shocks PN:MA764, Deaver replacement leaf packs, or go custom. Lift blocks WILL NOT WORK as S10's have a spring under axle set-up.
Swaybar…
The basic 4x4 S10 came with a front sway bar. A ZR2 S10 truck came with a front swaybar and a rear track bar. The blazers came with front and rear swaybars.
We have removed the rear sway bar on every blazer we have owned. Also we have removed the front swaybar without issue and have had a much more comfortable ride and it handles much better offroad. DO THIS WITH CAUTION as more body roll is induced and can affect high speed maneuvers in the event of an emergency. The best option is to build sway bar disconnects.
Bumpstops…
You can purchase energy suspension low profile bump stops PN : 99116. We currently have them installed and were able to net about 1.5” of "uptravel" and have encountered no problems at all. Make sure you still have tire clearance if you have increased the size of your tires upon full compression.
Springs...
If you have a stock suspension designed 4x4 S10 you have torsion bars for front springs and the only "leveling kit" is to adjust your Z-height by tightening the torsion bar adjustment bolt to Z- spec and then getting an alignment. Your next best option for reaching the top limits of the Z- spec is the Rough Country kit.
Control arms...
The stock stamped control arms are weak in design and are subject to deformation where the bushing is pressed through the two vertical pieces of the pivot on the arm. This needs to be fixed by welding in material to be boxed the pivot and make sure that the arm you are boxing has not already been deformed. For the upper arm you have a few options. AVOID the Superlift upper control arm as it is difficult to hold an alignment and has different geometry then the
stock arms. BDS makes tubular upper control arms that are MUCH stronger then stock and have a different bushing design then the factory setup. Or you can box the upper arm like the lower arm. The latest option on the market is the Rough country lift kit arms. While they have slightly different geometry, we have had great luck using them within the factory Z height spec.
Control arm bushings...
There are also several options for these. You can run stock rubber bushings. You can have custom delrin bushings made. Or you can run poly bushings. There is a trick to this though. You will need two kits energy suspension kit PN:33119 and MOOG kit PN: K6418. The energy suspension kit comes with presleeved lower control arm bushing but not upper bushings. The upper replacement bushings are prone to accelerated wear in that kit. The Moog kit comes with presleeved thermoplastic upper control arm bushings. If you are going to use stock control arms I suggest boxing the arms before you press out the old bushings and install new ones.
Balljoints...
The best choice for the lower control arm is Proforged. They have the highest pullout rating and hold their strength even when put to the max angle. The upper control arm there two choices:
#1 Stock style balljoints such as Proforged
#2 Fullsize balljoints in the instance that you have Rough Country control arms installed.
Shocks…
The ZR2 came equipped from the factory with Bilstein 5100 shock absorbers and many users have found that these are an excellent long lasting unit. The Rancho replacement shocks for the S10 are valved stiffer than the factory shocks.
Steering
This is another area with many options and a need to decide what your intended use of the vehicle is.
Steering gear box…
The factory steering box can be replaced with a much heavier duty unit from PCS. This will handle the stress caused by offroad use.
Pitman arm…
These are infamous for failure in S10’s the best option right now is a Proforged or Moog replacement. However, we have found that often times a worn idler arm accelerates the wear of the pitman arm.
Idler arm...
Now you have the option of installing a Outfitter Design LLC “1 Ton Idler Arm Adapter” This allows you to run a idler arm pivot out of a 1 ton silverado and a idler arm out of a K3500.
Steering stabilizer…
ZR2’s came stock with a steering stabilizer and regular S10’s have the option of one. The best replacement unit is a Rancho PN: RS5401
Tierods…
OEM replacements from Moog and Proforged are available. However, we feel that proforge now offers a longer lasting product.
On a per request basis, Outfitter Design LLC now offers an HD tierod upgrade package that utilizes an outer heim joint, solid adjuster sleeve, and jam nuts to better retain your alignment. The downside to this is that you cannot run a front swaybar as the tierods make contact with the swaybar link.
Steering gear box…
The factory steering box can be replaced with a much heavier duty unit from PCS. This will handle the stress caused by offroad use.
Pitman arm…
These are infamous for failure in S10’s the best option right now is a Proforged or Moog replacement. However, we have found that often times a worn idler arm accelerates the wear of the pitman arm.
Idler arm...
Now you have the option of installing a Outfitter Design LLC “1 Ton Idler Arm Adapter” This allows you to run a idler arm pivot out of a 1 ton silverado and a idler arm out of a K3500.
Steering stabilizer…
ZR2’s came stock with a steering stabilizer and regular S10’s have the option of one. The best replacement unit is a Rancho PN: RS5401
Tierods…
OEM replacements from Moog and Proforged are available. However, we feel that proforge now offers a longer lasting product.
On a per request basis, Outfitter Design LLC now offers an HD tierod upgrade package that utilizes an outer heim joint, solid adjuster sleeve, and jam nuts to better retain your alignment. The downside to this is that you cannot run a front swaybar as the tierods make contact with the swaybar link.
Accessories:
There are many options for an S10 such as lighting, recovery equipment, audio, tires, wheels etc.
Winch…
One option is to use the Warn trans4mer grill guard. Boondock also sells an armored bumper that can contain a winch through Synergyoffroad. There used to be a bumper called the Animal Bumper but it is no longer in production. The easiest and least expensive way to mount a winch currently is to use the hidden winch mount by Synergy Offroad which mounts the winch between the frame rails behind the factory bumper.
Wheels…
There are a massive number of wheels for the S10 but here is a guideline the factory wheel for 4x4 S10s is a 15X7” wheel with 6 inches of backspacing and a 5X4.75” bolt pattern.
Winch…
One option is to use the Warn trans4mer grill guard. Boondock also sells an armored bumper that can contain a winch through Synergyoffroad. There used to be a bumper called the Animal Bumper but it is no longer in production. The easiest and least expensive way to mount a winch currently is to use the hidden winch mount by Synergy Offroad which mounts the winch between the frame rails behind the factory bumper.
Wheels…
There are a massive number of wheels for the S10 but here is a guideline the factory wheel for 4x4 S10s is a 15X7” wheel with 6 inches of backspacing and a 5X4.75” bolt pattern.
WHERE TO BUY S10 ACCESSORIES:
There are several places where I have found parts needed to build the above “Ultimate IFS S10” such
as:
Synergy Offroad (http://www.shop.synergyoffroad.com),
Junkyard search (car-part.com),
RCV Performance (http://www.rcvperformance.com)
as:
Synergy Offroad (http://www.shop.synergyoffroad.com),
Junkyard search (car-part.com),
RCV Performance (http://www.rcvperformance.com)
